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Anti-Ageing Skin Care – More than just Vitamin A?
Recently on ABC TV the program Catalyst featured a
dermatologist that claimed retinoic acid (vitamin A derivative) was the only
effective anti-ageing skin care treatment. This is in contrast with the constant
bombardment of anti-ageing skin care advertising we face every time we open a
women’s magazine or switch on the TV. Do a quick internet search and you will
find literally hundreds of topical treatments on the market that claim to reduce
wrinkles, lift skin and help us to look 5 years younger in 5 days. Is there any
evidence to back up these claims or is it all marketing hype? Or are we just
taking a too narrow look at the idea of ageing skin and should we actually take
a more holistic look at skin care and ageing in general?
This article will look at ingredients that have shown to
be of benefit both clinical and in trials for skin anti-ageing. It is however
important to keep in mind that topical anti-ageing ingredients are only one
aspect of skin care. Hydration, nourishment, minimising free radical production
and inflammation and sun protection also come into play when taking a more
holistic view of skin ageing. As indeed does the idea of ageing gracefully.
When researching anti-ageing skin ingredients it becomes
quickly clear that there isn’t a lot of evidence available. Consequently there
are only a small number of topical ingredients that have been shown to
clinically improve signs of skin ageing and wrinkles. One thing we can be sure
of is that most of the skin care creams that claims to have “miracle” effects
don’t have the research to back them up. So let’s look at the ingredients that
have been researched.
Retinoic Acid
While often called vitamin A, retinoic acid while related
is actually a distinct substance. The effects of retinoic acid on the process of
skin ageing have been well documented and include increase synthesis of
collagen, reducing fine wrinkles, improve skin texture and increase skin
thickness. The downside with retinoic acid is the common side effects such as
irritation, dryness and sun sensitivity. The other important thing to note is
that retinoic acid is only available by prescription.
Over the counter products generally use retinoids.
Retinoids have shown anti-ageing benefits, however higher concentrations are
generally needed and the hight the concentration the high the risk of side
effects similar to retinoic acid. Low dose retinoids may or may not have
anti-ageing effects on the skin. The effects depend on an individual’s skin cell
responsiveness to retinoids. Vitamin A is a precursor to retinoids however it
requires conversion before it can be active. So again, it may or may not have
specific anti-ageing effects.
Alpha Lipoic Acid
As an antioxidant, Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA) is both water
and fat soluble, which means it is able to reach and protect both water and
lipid portions of skin. This is particularly relevant to our skin as fats play a
vital role in maintaining healthy skin. One of the roles ALA plays in the health
of the skin is to inhibit cross-linking which is the formation of chemical
bridges between proteins or other large molecules. Cross-linking contributes to
the ageing process by causing hardening of arteries, stiffening of the joints
and wrinkling of the skin.
Topically ALA acts as a skin antioxidant, penetrating skin
cell membranes, where it neutralizes free radicals and increases the
effectiveness of other antioxidants such as vitamins C and E. By reducing free
radical damage it potentially slows the effects of ageing. In studies ALA has
shown strong potential as an anti-wrinkle agent. In one small-scale study, high
potency lipoic acid reduced mild-to-moderate wrinkles by up to 50 percent,
whereas fine lines almost disappeared. In another study, lipoic acid
significantly improved the appearance of certain types of scars. From a clinical
perspective, ALA has received a lot of hype. Its role as an anti-ageing nutrient
is largely due to its free-radical quenching effects which is an attribute
shared by a number of other ingredients including CoQ10, green tea and vitamin
C.
CoEnzyme Q 10
CoQ10 is naturally found in all cells of the body. It has
dual functions acting as a potent antioxidant as well as increasing cellular
energy production (specifically mitochondrial activity). As we age, the levels
of CoQ10 reduce, particularly in our skin which leads to less skin cell energy
production. The net result is a reduction in our skin’s ability to produce skin
molecules such as collagen and elastin. In addition, skin cells low in
antioxidants such as CoQ10, have reduced ability to stop free radical
production. Specifically the topical application of CoQ10 restores mitochondrial
activity which increases cellular energy production thereby improving the cells
ability to produce new collagen. It also increases the ability of the cell to
minimise damage from free radical production.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is one ingredient that has well researched
topical anti-ageing benefits. As mentioned above it is an important skin
antioxidant. It is also essential for the synthesis of collagen. The downside of
this ingredient in skin care is that it is very unstable and easily oxidises
rendering it ineffective. The second consideration is that it is required in
quite high concentrations (10% of more) to be effective. Look for fat soluble
forms that are the only forms absorbed by the skin effectively such as ascorbyl
palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
Green Tea
Not only good to drink, green tea has also shown promise
for skin care. Studies using green tea have concentrated on its ability to
reduce sun damage (a key factor in skin ageing). It works by reducing free
radicals and inflammation that result from exposure to UV rays. Apart from free
radical damage, inflammation is a potential driver of premature skin ageing. One
study also showed significant improvement in elasticity of skin tissue after
applying a 10% concentration of green tea daily for 8 weeks. Another small study
showed benefit for papulopustular rosacea using a polyphenone rich green tea
extract.
In this author’s opinion, topical active ingredients
aren’t the be all and end all of skin care or even anti-ageing treatments. A
holistic perspective towards skin care will see healthier skin condition and
minimise ageing. However, as part of a holistic plan, topical anti-ageing
ingredients can be of significant benefit. If you want to work on a specific
skin issue choose ingredients that have been researched or that have had good
clinical results. Be discerning about marketing claims and “miracles” in a jar.
Lastly, if you do want to try a product, give it 3 months. Any less and you may
not be giving the product a reasonable chance to work. However, if you don’t see
results in that time period it is likely that it isn’t helping.
References available upon request.
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