Skin Solutions - Dry, Dull or Dehydrated Skin
If your skin lacks radiance and feels
"tight" it is likely that it is dehydrated. The appearance of fine
lines due to loss of  elasticity and flexibility are other key signs of
dehydrated skin. Moisture evaporates readily through the skin, and if
we don't stop this occurrence our skin looses its ability to protect
against the outside environment leading to even more moisture loss and
in the long term, actual skin damage due to poor cellular integrity.
Products for Dry/Dehydrated Skin
Cleansers
Synthetic foaming agents such as sodium or ammonium laurel sulphate are a
significant cause of acid mantle disruption and coupled with cooler
weather can lead to issues such as dehydration, roughness, infection,
redness and irritation. Switch to a cream cleanser over winter. You can
go back to a gel or foaming cleanser as soon as the weather starts to
get warmer again. Our cream cleanser picks include:
- For very dry, dehydrated or sensitive skin choose the Haven Scent Coconut Cream Cleanser.
This is almost like using a cold cream to remove make up as it is very
rich and creamy. You can use a moist flannel to wipe the cleanser off.
- For combination skin, where congestion and dryness occur choose the AUM Brightening Cream Cleanser instead. This includes enzymes to help clear congestion but is gentle on skin at the same time.
- For normal skin types, the La Mav Soothing Cream Cleanser
Serums
- Use an oil serum at night to help improve the moisture holding
capacity of the skin cells. You can apply the serum under your
moisturiser (only use half a pump) or instead of a night cream. Any
serum you use should sink into the skin completely within 5 minutes. Our
product picks are:
- Remedica Regenerate Visage or VitaleVisage – either of these lovely serums will nourish the skin deeply and more
than that, help improve the skin cell health. (Ed note: I love Vitale
Visage and it is the key product that got me through the onset of the
dry weather).
Moisturiser
- Choose a richer moisturiser. This may seem like a simple solution
but it is a very effective way of preventing moisture loss from the
skin. You don’t have to jump from a light lotion up to a rich cream,
just choose the next moisturiser up from your current one. eg. I have
gone from Devita Solar Protect which is quite light up to Devita
Rx Ultrahydrate. Alternatively, try using your night cream during the
day. If it sinks in without a greasy feel, then it is suitable for day
use. Our picks include:
For more information about the organic and natural skin care products
that will suit your skin specifically, ask our skin specialist for
advice. E-mail our organic skin specialist
About Dry/Dehydrated Skin
 Wind, sun and pollution as well as
internal factors such as diet, nutrient levels and hereditary all play a
role in the determining the health of our skin as an effective barrier.
The very outer layer of our epidermis (top skin layer) is the real
protective layer of the skin. It is made up of flattened dead
keratinocytes. These dead skin cells are regularly shed and replaced by
deeper skin layers moving up to the surface. The glue that keeps the
keratinocytes together is formed by lipids such as fatty acids ceramides
and cholesterol. This layer forms a waterproof barrier that reduces
"Trans Epidermal Water Loss" or TEWL, ensuring adequate moisture content
for the skin. It is this barrier that protects against chemicals,
irritants and micro-organisms. A deficiency in these epidermal lipids
causes the water retention powers of the epidermis to be significantly
reduced. Moisture evaporation and skin dehydration generally follow.
One section of the skin's waterproof moisture
barrier is slightly acidic and as such is know as the acid mantle. The
acidity of this layer is due to secretions from the sebaceous and sweat
glands and its function is once again protection but in particular
stopping the growth of bacteria and fungi. It also assists with
maintaining the "glue" that keeps the outer layer skin cells bound
together. If acid pH of the skin is disrupted it becomes more alkaline
and starts to lose its protective properties.
It is the balance of sebum (skin oil) and perspiration that keeps
the skin healthy. Skin dehydration occurs when the water and oils that
form part of the protective layer are out of balance. This can happen
for a number of reasons:
1. Evaporation of moisture through the
skin. Factors that promote moisture evaporation include dry air (ie lack
of humidity or airconditioning), wind, prolonged water exposure
(swimming in pools or long showers).
2. Damage to the waterproof
barrier or disruption of the acid mantle leaving the skin open to issues
such as dehydration, roughness, infection, redness and irritation.
Synthetic foaming agents such as sodium laurel sulphate are a
significant cause of acid mantle disruption.
3. Low water and
healthy fat intake - adequate water intake is required to maintain
cellular fluid. Essential fatty acids from good fats help maintain the
fatty membrane surrounding the cell, holding in moisture and nutrition.
4. Ageing. As we age, there is a reduction in the water holding capacity of the skin as well as the production of natural oils.
Managing Dry/Dehydrated Skin
Dry Skin Tips
Sun, wind, cold air and hot water all increase water loss. You can reduce evaporation by making a few changes to your routine:
- Have short showers – long hot showers and swimming in heated pools opens up the pores and increases water loss from your skin.
- If you are in airconditioning, make sure you keep hydrated. To increase the fluid uptake into your cells add a squeeze of lemon or orange juice to your water bottle.
- When out in the wind or cold apply a lip balm to help minimise moisture loss from your lips.
- If you know you are going to be exposed to the elements, wear a richer moisturiser or a thicker sunscreen to help avoid sun and wind damage.
The next step is
to repair the waterproof barrier and restore the skin's ability to
attract and retain water. Ideally any skin care product applied will
have a number of roles which include delivering nutrition which assists
with repair, maintenance of the acid mantle and moisture barrier and a
softening effect achieved by attracting water from the external
environment. To achieve this, the ingredients must be able to be
absorbed properly by the skin. Water based ingredients may have a
temporary plumping effect on the surface of the skin but this effect
will not last as the ingredients haven't been absorbed into the deeper
layers of the skin. Lipids and oil soluble ingredients are more readily absorbed by the skin as are ingredients that have a smaller particle size. Most
cosmetic products on the market don't actually help the skin repair
damage to the barrier or acid mantle. They act as emollients, reducing
water loss from the skin by covering it with a protective layer.
Effectively they keep water in the skin. Common emollient ingredients
include butters, waxes and oils as well as products such as petroleum
and lanolin. While emollients are helping to reduce the problem, they
aren't actually remedying the underlying cause. The other issue with
some emollient ingredients is that they may actually cause more
problems.
Petroleum products such as mineral oil sit on the surface of the
skin, stopping the skin from breathing and have the potential to block
pores. By contrast natural waxes and oils allow the skin to breath. Some
of the heavier waxes or butters may still block pores however natural
carrier and essential oils are unlikely to have this effect. When
it comes to ingredients that achieve this end, our natural pantry is
rich in ingredients that can help restore skin hydration rather than
just masking the problem. Many natural carrier oils such as Rosehip, Sweet Almond, Tamanu, Marula, Jojoba and Evening Primrose Oil are readily absorbed by the skin. They have the ability to nourish the
skin, provide an effective barrier to water loss and reduce TEWL. Oils
such as Rosehip also contain essential fatty acids (EFAs) that promote
the repair of the cellular membrane, allowing skin cells to retain more
water. Ironically if the skin cells are deficient in EFAs, it can cause
the sebaceous glands to become overactive, producing more oil. With an
EFA deficiency, the skin will often be oily through the T-zone and dry
across the cheeks. As long as the appropriate natural carrier oils are
used, they can have a balancing effect, reducing both oily and dry skin
conditions. Ideal choices for skin that is both oily and dry include
Rosehip and Sweet Almond. Many carrier oils such Marula, Rosehip
and Boabab also contain essential skin vitamins such as A, E and C that
promote healthy cellular function. As antioxidants, the vitamins also
help slow skin ageing. Read more about the different types of oil for skin health below:
Rest & Relaxation
 Stress affects our lives in all ways, some motivational and positive,
others subtle and more insidious. While not historically recognised as a
contributing factor in skin conditions, there is now growing body of
evidence to show that stress has potentially harmful effects on the
skin.
Stress can affect our appearance in a number of ways including
increased perspiration, brittle nails, dry, thinning hair and sensitive
more reactive skin. Where there is an existing skin condition, worsening
can be seen in the following ways:
- Worsening of the inflammation (redness) and dryness in eczema and rosacea
- Increased tendency to flushing and blushing
- Increased sensitivity to irritants and infections agents
Taking the time to incorporate some simple stress reducing techniques
into your daily routine will help improve the condition of your skin:
- Avoid excessive consumption of stimulants such as coffee and soft
drink. One caffeine-containing drink per day is ample. For those that
are particularly sensitive, drink green tea instead of coffee.
- Alcohol and smoking suppress the immune system. Smoking has many
detrimental effects on the skin and so is best avoided completely. In
moderation, alcohol consumption may help reduce stress however it is a
fine and individual line, so stick to physician guidelines – one
standard drink per day for women and two for men over the age of 18. In addition, try to
go without at least 2 days per week.
Exercise
- Exercise can significantly reduce stress levels. The release of endorphins following exercise increases feelings of happiness and wellbeing. In addition it increases circulation and therefore nutrition to your extremities, including your skin.
- Meditation or breathing techniques. Meditation reduces
cortisol release and increases immune function – ideal if you are
suffering from a skin condition. If you are a beginner, take a class in
Buteko breathing or follow a guided meditation.
E-mail us to request a copy of our Clean Skin handout. Or for more comprehensive dietary and detox programs for acne and skin conditions see Karen Fischer's Book "The Healthy Skin Diet".
Recommended Dietary Changes
What you do on the "inside" also has an impact in skin
hydration. Reducing factors that have a diuretic effect such as alcohol
and coffee will increase cellular hydration. The other key issue is
ensuring adequate good fats in the diet. Good fats such as essential
fatty acids (EFA's) ensure the cell membrane remains flexible. This
allows the cell to excrete toxins and cellular waste products and hold
onto nutrients and water. EFAs also help to keep skin flexible and
hydrated and promoting skin healing. Deep Sea fish are among the best
source of EFAs including tuna, salmon, anchovies and sardines. Other
good sources of EFA's include avocado, nuts & seeds, flaxoil and
Evening Primrose Oil. Keep in mind...
- Drink enough water as adequate water intake is required to maintain cellular fluid.
- Essential fatty acids from good fats help maintain the fatty
membrane surrounding the cell, holding in moisture and nutrition. Good
fat sources include deep sea fish, olive oil, nuts & seeds, avocado
and flax seeds.
- If your skin is really dry, try the Lemon Detox drink for 7 days. The difference this will make is truly astounding.
Lemon Detox Drink
This drink is fantastic for anyone with dry or dehydrated skin. The lemon has an astringent
effect which means it stimulates the liver to release bile into the
digestive tract to be eliminated. The bile contains stored toxins so
effectively you are dumping waste from your liver. The lecithin and flax
oil prime your digestive system for the day, particularly your fat
digestion so again supporting the liver. And of course water is just
plain good for you and helps flush out daily waste particularly via your
kidneys.
In addition to all the good detoxing, flax seed oil supports the
moisture holding capacity of your skin cells and has a anti-inflammatory
effect thereby supporting your skin’s health. Feedback from client is that skin is generally more hydrated and much more even toned since being on the Lemon Detox Drink.
The recipe is as follows:
1/2 lemon (wash the outside)
1 tablespoon of soy lecithin (German is better than US variety)
1 tablespoon of flax oil (organic)
300mls of filtered water
Method: finely grate the rind of the lemon into the
blender then squeeze in the lemon juice. Add the lecithin, flax oil and
water. Blend for 1 minute until frothy. Pour and drink.
Read more dietary tips at vitaleblog.org
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