Aging is a complex process that affects the skin and every other organ in the body. Different mechanisms are involved leading to numerous ways of combating the aging process. The process of skin aging is a multimillion dollar industry and the push is constantly on to discover the elixir of youthful skin. At this point in time, the search continues…..
Skin aging is often divided into two categories, "chronological aging" which is a consequence of the passage of time and "photoaging" which results from damage caused by ultraviolet light from the sun. It is estimated that up to 80% of skin aging can be attributed to photoaging from sun exposure in non-smokers as it is cumulative and starts from youth (Fisher G, 2002).
The collagen in our skin is constantly undergoing “remodelling”. Sun exposure causes the production of metalloproteinases which break down collagen and cause microscarring. At the same time there is a decrease in the body’s production of collagen and overtime the cumulative damage from microscarring becomes macroscarring and eventually leads to the age related changes in our appearance such as fine lines, wrinkles and fat dimpling (Varani, J. 2000).
The natural aging process is influenced by three key processes. Every day cells die and are replaced by new cells. As we grow older mistakes in the cellular reproduction process start to increase leading to non-functional cells. As the number of non-functional cells increase, so too does the deterioration in bodily functions. Secondly, there is increased damage to the DNA within the cells and the older we get the less able we are to produce replacement cells to compensate for the damaged ones. The most obvious sign of this effect is the thinning of skin.
The third process is an underlying factor common to both photoaging and natural aging and is that of oxidative stress. Oxidative stress gives rise to the production of free radicals which can cause damage to our DNA, protein (collagen and elastin), protein synthesis (collagen remodelling) and fat stores. Ultraviolet light from the sun, normal metabolism and environmental stresses such as smoking, pollution, poor diet and chemical exposure all contribute to the production of free radicals. The damaging effect of free radicals is exacerbated if the presence of an antioxidant deficiency.
Every day skin cells are bombarded by damaging free radical assaults, even more so than other body organs because they are external and therefore exposed to sun, wind, pollution and chemicals. Free radicals degrade collagen fibres in the dermis, causing it to weaken over time. This leads to collagen cross-linking, resulting in loss of elasticity and contributes wrinkles.
At this stage, the process of skin aging sounds fairly grim however; there are certainly measures we can take to improve skin health. While much of the photoaging damage is irreversible, we can reverse some of the sun damage and importantly slow down the development of further damage. The natural aging process can also be slowed down by incorporating key dietary and lifestyle factors so that we look and feel younger than our chronological age.
Slowing Down the Aging Process
1. Avoid the midday sun. Some sun exposure is essential for the production of Vitamin D. However, prolonged midday sun exposure is most damaging and so should be avoided. If you are out in the midday sun, wear sunscreen when exposure will occur. When choosing a sunscreen, look for one that contains these titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, as they offer protection against UVA. To get the sun exposure you need, spend 20 minutes in the early morning or late afternoon sun. This level is sufficient for vitamin D production.
2. Don’t smoke. Smoking damages the skin almost as much as sun exposure. The damaging effect of smoking on the skin is due to the excessive production of free radicals. Antioxidant supplements and topical creams won’t be able to combat the level of free radical production generated by smoking so the net effect will be skin aging as well as damage to other organs in the body.
3. Eat plenty of Antioxidant rich foods. You can obtain antioxidants in your diet from brightly coloured fruit and vegetables…the more colour the better. Choose a wide variety of fruit and vegetables as this provides a wider spectrum of valuable antioxidants. Antioxidants will assist in skin repair and combat the production of free radicals.
4. Antioxidant Supplementation. If you think that you are subject to greater antioxidant stress than normal from factors such as sun, wind or pollution exposure or disease, poor diet and stress, then an antioxidant supplement may be of benefit. Choose one that contains Vitamins A, C, E, beta carotene and zinc as all of these antioxidants work to support the skin. Grape Seed extract is also very useful as it specifically works to inhibit the destruction of collagen as well as improving the elasticity in skin by stabilising collagen and elastin
5. Apply topical antioxidants to your skin. Antioxidants taken internally will always be used by the critical bodily organs such as the heart, brain, liver and lungs first. The skin is often the last organ that receives nutrients. For this reason it is also one of the first places we can identify nutrient deficiencies. Topical application of antioxidants will bolster internal reserves.
Building skin antioxidants levels through topical application will help to increase tolerance to both sun damage and chemical toxins. It will also help to strengthen the structural matrix of the skin. In a previous article written for Options, I have discussed the role of Alpha Lipoic Acid, vitamin C, vitamin A and Co Enzyme Q 10 as valuable topical skin antioxidants.
6. Avoid excess sugar. Research has shown that a high sugar intake is associated with greater skin wrinkling. This is due to the increase in inflammation in the body and a greater production of advanced glycosylation end products (AGE). AGE are closely associated with oxidative stress. A combination of a high antioxidant diet and low sugar reduces inflammation, free radical damage and AGE production in the body.
Have we found the elixir of youth….well not yet but research into the use of topical antioxidants is showing that some skin damage can be reversed. While these guidelines are not the “miracle in a jar” sought by the cosmetic industry, they are certainly ways of slowing skin aging and indeed body aging in general.
References:
Fisher, G J. 2002. Archives of Dermatology 138(11):1462-1479
Varani J, Warner RL, Gharaee-Kermani M, et al. 2000. Vitamin A Antagonizes Decreased Cell Growth and Elevated Collagen-Degrading Matrix Metalloproteinases and Stimulates Collagen Accumulation in Naturally Aged Human Skin. J Invest Dermatol. 114:480-486
Author: Ananda Mahony ND. Ananda is a naturopath and skin specialist. She owns Vitale Natural, an organic skin care store and beauty salon in Paddington, Brisbane. www.vitalenatural.com.au
|
